Wednesday, 3 January 2024

Ma-Ma Kante (V+), Kreuzwand, Karwendel, 10th September 2023

This route was rebolted in 2016, and I think that this means that it was also made directer with some harder climbing over better rock taking the place of some looser but easier pitches. This is certainly the case on the first pitch, and there were some pitches further up which I don't remember from last time and which offered good climbing on solid rock.

Walking up to the Kreuzwand
The first pitch and a grade V pitch further up were super. Also the supposed crux pitch, which I do remember from last time, is still pretty good. However, the pitch 10, which I must also have climbed last time, was too hard for me this time. I needed to do a move just above the belay A0, and I then gave up at the third bolt and lowered off that. We then escaped via the easy exit to the left.

Robert in the first pitch
The two grade III pitches in the middle marked as heikel (tricky) really were. They were unprotected and unprotectable, at least with nuts and Friends.

The sun was setting as we scrambled along the ridge, and it was twilight by the time we descended to the col and then walked down the scree slopes back to the Dammkar Hut. We then drank something at the hut before walking back to Mittenwald by the light of our headtorches.

Overall I enjoyed the route much more than the last time. I would like to go back to get the time down to 30 or preferably 25 minutes per pitch, and to finish the climb via the normal last two pitches rather than baling out via the easy exit.

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