Wednesday 3 January 2024

Wirklich oben bist Du nie (VI+), Gimpel Vorbau, 3rd September 2023

I climbed this with Mario's friend Rolf. (Mario and Martina climbed Morgenstund and their friends Jürgen and Rosi climbed Jedem Tierchen sein Plaisirchen.)

All of the six pitches were VI or VI+. Bolt spacing was like on a well-bolted sport crag. The climbing was good and at my upper limit, especially since I still had a problem on the ring finger of my right hand after hurting it at the wall a month earlier.

Rolf led the first pitch, which was the longest and most sustained. Pitch four started with some heikele Steherei (tricky standing around, i.e. slab climbing).

Rolf in Wirklich oben bist Du nie
Rolf abseiled, whereas I descended on foot with Mario and Martina from the top of their route.

Due to the lack of a logical line the route felt more like six sport climbs one after the other, but set against that the hard moves were good climbing and the rock was solid everywhere, with almost no grass and no loose easy sections.


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